Thursday, January 1, 2009

Jazz Tacos

I'm not a fan of Latin food. So much of it (in America at least) is watered down to fit the blandest tastes that the real flavor gets lost. That's why Jazz Tacos in Exchange Alley in the French Quarter in New Orleans gets my vote as the best Latin food I've eaten in ... well, I don't know when!

The restaurant can best be described as a hole-in-the-wall. It is, however, a clean hole-in-the-wall. The cashier who took our order did not speak English well. When my fiancee, Misty, ordered the jazz tacos, I said I'd have "the same." It didn't quite turn out that way, however.

We started with tortilla chips and fresh salsa. Instead of the watered-down gunk that most Mexican places serve, this was full of chunky tomatoes, peppers and onions. Lively on the tongue, it was still mild enough to be enjoyed by sensitive palates.

The jazz tacos featured ground, seasoned pork and soft tortillas. Everything tasted amazingly fresh -- the way a good restaurant should. The only problem was that the cashier hadn't understood what I ordered. While I said "the same," she heard "plantains." For those who don't know, plantains are related to the more familiar banana (or "dessert banana" if you prefer). Plantains are generally firmer (starchier) than bananas, and generally aren't my cup of tea. However, these were good -- coated in honey and orange and gently sauteed. Really well done. Served with sour cream, these offered a nice mix of sweet and savory, and were an unexpected pleasure.

The restaurant has limited seating: four to six small tables inside, and three or four tables on the pedestrian-only alley. We sat outside, and had a good experience watching the people come and go along Exchange Alley. Come prepared, though: Jazz Tacos accepts no checks, credit or debit cards. It's strictly a cash-only operation. Drinks (non-alcoholic) are available, but only bottled. Our lunch was less than $25 for two people. Well worth the time and effort to find the place.

Four out of five stars, with points off for limited beverage selection and not quite getting the order right, even though what we ended up with was very good.

Crescent City Brewhouse


New Orleans offers an amazing array of food and drinks. In many ways, New Orleans simply is American cuisine -- it's a fusion of everything, from French, Southern-style, Spanish, Asian and Italian. It seems like nearly every restaurant in the French Quarter has been rated by Zagat at one time or another.

At the Crescent City Brewhouse, they offer good beer. But if I were going for beer only, I'd quite frankly go somewhere else. The beer is good -- not great. They offer several varieties, from pale ales to darker "Weiss" flavors. I sampled all five varieties offered, and none of them was outstanding. And if you're going to make your mark as a microbrewery, at least one of your beers should knock my socks off. Sadly, that didn't happen.

But the food and service were both a pleasant surprise. Our first experience was baked brie with apple chutney, baked garlic and fresh grapes. It was wonderful, as the soft cheese worked with the chutney and grapes for an explosion of flavor. I'd also recommend the andouille dressing, which is a cornbread dressing flavored with ground sausage. It's a spicy alternative to a southern favorite.

The Brewhouse is like most other restaurants in the Big Easy: When they serve seafood, they want you to know it's fresh. They're proud of the way they cook their seafood, and it shows in the Louisiana crab cakes. Beautifully done and served with two types of sauces (including a spicy remoulade), there's just enough crab cake to whet your appetite for the entree.


Dessert for me was a bread pudding with cinnamon and walnuts. Not overly spiced, the bread pudding was the best I've ever had. Done badly, a bread pudding can be a horribly heavy dessert. This, however, was light but satisfying.

Decor at the Brewhouse is exposed brick and wood. The service from Stephen and Kat was excellent, and they truly seemed to want us to have a wonderful experience. But make no mistake -- this is dining for adults. I wouldn't recommend the place for children. It can get expensive (easily over $60 for two if you're not careful), but the experience is worth the money.

Other amenities: Full bar, second floor balcony with a view of Decatur Street.

Rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars.